近日,知名演员刘涛在个人社交平台发布“逛瘦西湖美景,品尝地道淮扬菜”主题视频,记录在扬州趣园茶社的美食之旅,成为近期美食类视频的“爆款”。随后,西班牙马德里米其林三星餐厅主厨大卫·穆尼奥斯专程来扬,向淮扬菜青年名厨陶晓东学艺;富春、冶春、趣园、扬州宴等老字号品牌加速“走出去”,扬州宴·趣园无锡首店开业即火爆,冶春德国法兰克福店正式营业,富春在南京、上海、宜兴等地连开新店……作为“世界美食之都”,扬州正以美食为纽带,持续吸引全球目光,扬州淮扬菜缘何频频出圈?
刘涛(左)参加淮扬菜品鉴之旅。
明星打卡+国际交流,淮扬菜破圈传播
视频中,刘涛以瘦西湖烟雨朦胧的景致开篇,随后转入趣园茶社,与陶晓东开启淮扬菜品鉴之旅。餐桌上,盐水鹅、文思豆腐鳕鱼狮子头、扬州炒饭等经典与创新菜品依次登场。记者了解到,这条视频的拍摄与正在热播的美食竞技综艺《百厨大战》密切相关,节目全程在扬州影视基地录制,刘涛作为常驻嘉宾参与,也将她为《百厨大战》全国探店的首站放在了扬州趣园。视频发布后,网友纷纷留言“看饿了,想去扬州吃淮扬菜”“淮扬菜真的太精致了”,明星效应进一步提升了淮扬菜的知名度和影响力。
大卫·穆尼奥斯(左)学习淮扬菜技艺。
如果说明星打卡让淮扬菜“破圈”传播,那么国际名厨的到来则是对淮扬菜技艺的硬核认可。大卫·穆尼奥斯是连续三年世界最佳主厨,其餐厅DiverXO常年稳居全球榜单前列,此次来扬专程向陶晓东学习淮扬菜技艺。大卫表示,文思豆腐羹轻盈、丝滑的口感是他从未体验过的,对淮扬菜的刀工和本味理念深感震撼。这种国际间的技艺交流,让淮扬菜的匠心技艺在全球范围内得到更广泛的传播。
老字号“走出去”,淮扬风味飘向世界
据了解,近一年来,周涛、朱迅、王迅、郭涛、唐禹哲等名人、明星纷纷来扬打卡扬州美食,陶晓东也受邀前往法国为戛纳世界电影节黑珍珠中国味晚宴担任主厨,并成为世界第一个受邀踏上法国戛纳国际电影节红毯的厨师。
文思豆腐。 屠明娟 摄
在明星效应和国际交流的带动下,扬州老字号餐饮品牌加速“走出去”,从国内市场到国际舞台,淮扬风味正在不断扩大版图。7月11日,扬城一味旗下双IP融合标杆门店——扬州宴·趣园无锡音悦城首店正式开业,这是扬州宴·趣园品牌进驻无锡的首家门店,让无锡本地食客无需远赴扬州,便能沉浸式品尝正统淮扬佳肴。目前,扬州宴·趣园已在北京、苏州、无锡等地布局20家门店,成为淮扬菜跨区域传播的重要载体。
富春饮服集团总经理徐颖宏介绍,富春茶社今年在南京长乐坊、上海徐汇区、宜兴窑湖小镇开设新店,同时将位于扬州花局里北入口的富春花园茶社进行翻新提升。作为百年老字号,富春在传承经典的同时,不断创新产品和运营模式,推出“寿桃酥”“魁龙珠茶糕”等新品,与动漫IP联名推出“灵龙剔透”礼盒,开发线上平台、试水直播带货,以数字化赋能传统运营,让老字号融入时尚生活。
冶春的海外布局更是迈出重要一步,7月22日,冶春德国法兰克福店正式开业,这是冶春布局欧洲的首家门店,为欧洲消费者带来原汁原味的淮扬风味。此前,冶春新加坡店已成为中国驻新大使馆定点接待场所和重要文化窗口,先后斩获狮城TOP50最佳餐厅、金茉莉地标美食餐厅等多项荣誉。
冶春德国法兰克福店。
政策赋能+文化传承,淮扬菜出圈的深层逻辑
淮扬菜频频出圈,背后离不开扬州对美食文化的传承创新和开放交流。
“冶春法兰克福店开业一周,店内人气火爆,不仅有江浙沪皖等淮扬菜风味区的老乡前往打卡寻味,更多的是当地的华人带着外国朋友去品尝中国菜。”扬州市烹饪餐饮行业协会会长陈军介绍。
“在传承方面,扬州拥有一批淮扬菜非遗传承人,他们将传统技艺与现代理念相结合,让淮扬菜在新时代焕发生机。在传播方面,扬州借助明星效应、综艺平台、国际交流等多种方式,扩大淮扬菜的影响力,同时通过老字号品牌的‘走出去’,让淮扬风味扎根全国、走向世界。”陈军表示。
“近年来,随着美食博主们越来越多地将镜头对准淮扬菜的后厨,解译食材变化的过程,让越来越多的食客看见淮扬菜的‘功夫’;而淮扬菜大厨也逐渐放下‘国宴菜’的身段,在抖音、小红书等短视频平台推介淮扬家常菜;即便是在外地开店,淮扬菜餐厅也会融入其他风味,丰富淮扬菜的味型和技法。”扬州市淮扬菜厨师协会副会长兼秘书长徐明介绍。
扬州市商务局相关负责人表示,近年来扬州积极推动美食文化“走出去”,通过深度参与联合国教科文组织创意城市网络活动,加强与成员城市的经验互鉴与产业合作;搭建海外推广平台,支持本土企业拓展境外市场,参与国际文化交流活动;利用国际新媒体矩阵,加强扬州美食的海外传播,提升城市品牌国际认知度;同时推动美食标准与服务体系的国际化对接,为美食文化出海奠定基础。(屠明娟)
Recently, well-known actor Liu Tao posted a video on his personal social media titled "Strolling through the Beautiful Scenery of Slender West Lake and Tasting Authentic Huaiyang Cuisine," documenting his culinary journey at Yangzhou Quyuan Teahouse, which has become a recent viral food video trend. Subsequently, David Muñoz, head chef of a Michelin three-star restaurant in Madrid, Spain, made a special trip to Yangzhou to learn from young Huaiyang cuisine chef Tao Xiaodong; Time-honored brands such as Fuchun, Yechun, Quyuan, and Yangzhou Ban are accelerating their "going global" expansion. The first store of Yangzhou Yan·Quyuan Wuxi opened immediately, Yechun officially opened its Frankfurt store in Germany, and Fuchun has opened new stores in Nanjing, Shanghai, Yixing, and other places...... As the "World Capital of Gourmet," Yangzhou continues to attract global attention through its culinary bonds. Why has Yangzhou Huaiyang cuisine frequently gone viral?
Liu Tao (left) participates in the Huaiyang cuisine tasting
Star check-ins + international exchanges have helped Huaiyang cuisine gain wider recognition and spread its popularity beyond its regional boundaries.
In the video, Liu Tao begins with the misty and rainy scenery of Slender West Lake, then transitions to the Quyuan Tea House, where she begins a journey of tasting Huaiyang cuisine with Tao Xiaodong. On the dining table, classic and innovative dishes such as salted goose, Wensi tofu with cod and lion's head, and Yangzhou fried rice are served one after another. It was reported that the filming of this video is closely related to the popular food competition variety show "Battle of Chefs," which was recorded entirely at the Yangzhou Film and Television Base. As a regular guest on the show, Liu Tao chose Quyuan in Yangzhou as her first stop for exploring local restaurants for the show. After the video was released, netizens left comments such as "I'm so hungry after watching; I want to go to Yangzhou to taste Huaiyang cuisine" and "Huaiyang cuisine is truly exquisite," further enhancing the fame and influence of Huaiyang cuisine through the star's presence.
David Muñoz (left) is learning the skills of Huaiyang cuisin
If celebrity check-ins help Huaiyang cuisine "break out of its circle" and spread, then the arrival of international chefs is a solid recognition of Huaiyang culinary skills. David Muñoz has been the world's best chef for three consecutive years, and his restaurant DiverXO has consistently ranked among the top globally. This time, he came to Yangzhou specifically to learn Huaiyang cuisine techniques from Tao Xiaodong. David said that the light and silky texture of Wensi Tofu Thick Soup, which he had never experienced before, was deeply impressed by the knife skills and authentic taste philosophy of Huaiyang cuisine. This international exchange of skills has allowed Huaiyang cuisine's craftsmanship to spread more widely worldwide.
Time-honored brands "go global," Huaiyang flavors spread worldwide
It is reported that over the past year, celebrities such as Zhou Tao, Zhu Xun, Wang Xun, Guo Tao, and Tang Yuzhe have come to Yangzhou to check in at Yangzhou cuisine. Tao Xiaodong was also invited to France to serve as head chef for the Black Pearl Chinese dinner at the Cannes World Film Festival, becoming the first chef in the world to be invited to walk the red carpet at the Cannes International Film Festival.
Wensi Tofu. Photographed by Tu Mingjuan
Driven by celebrity influence and international exchanges, Yangzhou's time-honored restaurant brands are accelerating their "going global," expanding Huaiyang flavors from the domestic market to the international stage. On July 11, Yangcheng Yiwei's dual-IP integration flagship store—Yangzhou Yan·Quyuan Wuxi Yinyue City—officially opened. This is the first store for the Yangzhou Yan·Quyuan brand in Wuxi, allowing local diners to immerse themselves in authentic Huaiyang cuisine without traveling far to Yangzhou. Currently, Yangzhou Yan·Quyuan has established 20 stores in Beijing, Suzhou, Wuxi, and other locations, becoming an important carrier for cross-regional promotion of Huaiyang cuisine.
Xu Yinghong, General Manager of Fuchun Beverage & Service Group, introduced that this year Fuchun Teahouse opened new stores in Nanjing Changlefang, Shanghai Xuhui District, and Yixing Yaohu Town, while also upgrading and renovating the Fuchun Garden Teahouse located at the north entrance of Huajuli in Yangzhou. As a century-old brand, Fuchun continues to innovate products and operations while inheriting classics, launching new products such as "Longevity Peach Crisp" and "Kuilong Pearl Tea Cake," co-branding with an anime IP to launch the "Linglong Transparent Gift" gift box, developing online platforms, and experimenting with live-streaming sales, empowering traditional operations through digitalization to integrate time-honored brands into fashionable lifestyles.
Yechun's overseas expansion marks an important milestone. On July 22, Yechun's Frankfurt store in Germany officially opened, marking Yechun's first store in Europe, bringing authentic Huaiyang flavors to European consumers. Previously, Yechun's Singapore store had become the designated reception venue and important cultural window for the Chinese Embassy in Singapore, winning numerous honors including Lion City's TOP50 Best Restaurant and Golden Jasmine Landmark Gourmet Restaurant.
Yechun German Frankfurt store.
Policy Empowerment and Cultural Inheritance: The Deeper Logic of Huaiyang Cuisine's Breakout
The frequent breakout of Huaiyang cuisine is inseparable from Yangzhou's commitment to inheriting and innovating culinary culture and opening up to exchange.
"Yechun Frankfurt store opened for a week and has been extremely popular. Not only do locals from Huaiyang cuisine regions like Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Shanghai, and Anhui come to check in and seek flavors, but more often, local Chinese bring foreign friends to taste Chinese food." Chen Jun, President of the Yangzhou Culinary and Catering Industry Association, explained.
"In terms of inheritance, Yangzhou has a group of inheritors of Huaiyang cuisine intangible cultural heritage who combine traditional techniques with modern concepts, bringing new vitality to Huaiyang cuisine in the new era. In terms of promotion, Yangzhou leverages celebrity influence, variety show platforms, and international exchanges to expand the influence of Huaiyang cuisine, while also allowing time-honored brands to 'go global' and let Huaiyang flavors take root nationwide and reach the world. Chen Jun stated.
"In recent years, as food bloggers have increasingly focused their cameras on the kitchens of Huaiyang cuisine, interpreting the process of ingredient changes, more diners have witnessed the 'skill' of Huaiyang cuisine; Meanwhile, Huaiyang cuisine chefs have gradually set aside the 'state banquet dish' image to promote Huaiyang home-style dishes on short video platforms like Douyin and Xiaohongshu; Even when opening a restaurant in another city, Huaiyang restaurants will incorporate other flavors to enrich the flavors and techniques of Huaiyang cuisine. " introduced Xu Ming, Vice President and Secretary-General of the Yangzhou Huaiyang Cuisine Chefs Association.
A relevant official from the Yangzhou Municipal Bureau of Commerce stated that in recent years, Yangzhou has actively promoted the "going global" of its culinary culture, deeply participating in UNESCO's Creative Cities Network activities, strengthening experience exchange and industrial cooperation with member cities; Build overseas promotion platforms, support local enterprises in expanding overseas markets, and participate in international cultural exchange activities; Utilize an international new media matrix to strengthen the overseas dissemination of Yangzhou cuisine and enhance the city's international brand recognition; At the same time, it promotes the internationalization of culinary standards and service systems, laying the foundation for the export of culinary culture. (Tu Mingjuan)
制作 曹宇
编校 延晨 徐蓉
一审 桂艳 张莉
二审 肖东 董明
三审 晖军