Karima Moyer-Nocchi,Chewing the Fat: An Oral History of Italian Foodways from Fascism to Dolce Vita, Perrysburg: Medea, 2015.

内容简介

Italy is experiencing a surge of gastronomic nostalgia, a yearning to recreate and relive the delectable rustic meals of yesteryear, of brimming chalices of wine and sauce-laden pasta. A return to the simple abundance of Italy’s past!

Ah, if only it were true. If there was a glorious yesteryear of Italian feasting, it was enjoyed only by society’s elite. As for standard, rustic fare, such meals bore little resemblance to what is now considered—even in Italy—traditional Italian food.

Determined to separate out the folklore from the fakelore and reveal the intriguing yet uncelebrated past of Italian foodways, food historian Karima Moyer-Nocchi interviewed Italian "ninetysomething" women from various walks of life, from charcoal-makers to countesses. Her travels spanned from the far north to the deep south, as well as Italy's former landholdings. All of the interviewees had lived through the harrowing years called the Ventennio fascista, the twenty-year reign of fascism in Italy, and were eager to have their final say.

What follows are eighteen remarkable oral narratives, each building upon the last to create a mosaic of Italian foodways, from the fascist era through to the post World War II boom, the “Dolce Vita.” Each woman contributes a recipe chosen specifically to reflect what food was like when she was growing up under Mussolini. The narratives are separated by astringent, yet entertaining essay briefs, illuminating various aspects of gastronomic history and daily life in fascist Italy.

Engrossing and engaging, Chewing the Fat gently debunks the myths of Italy’s gastronomic nostalgia industry, revealing a culture of food that is surprisingly different from the image most people have of Italian cuisine.

意大利正经历着一股美食怀旧潮：人们渴望重现和重温昔日那些美味的乡村餐食，渴望品尝盛满美酒的酒杯，和裹满酱料的意大利面。回归意大利过去的质朴丰足！

但愿这是真的。如果说意大利确实曾有过辉煌的饮食盛况，那也只为社会精英所独享。至于普通的乡村餐食，与现在被认为是——甚至在意大利本土也被认为是——传统意大利美食的形象大相径庭。

为了将真实的民间传统与虚构的传统区分开来，揭示意大利饮食文化鲜为人知却引人入胜的过往，食品历史学家卡丽玛·莫耶-诺基采访了来自各行各业的意大利"九旬老人"，从烧炭工到女伯爵都有。她的采访足迹遍及意大利的最北端到最南端，以及意大利曾经的领地。所有受访者都经历过令人心悸的“法西斯统治二十年”（Ventennio fascista），都迫切地想要诉说她们最后的心声。

本书收录了十八个非凡的口述叙事，每个故事都在前一个基础上延展，共同构建出一幅从法西斯时期到二战后"甜蜜生活"时期的意大利饮食图景。每位女性都贡献了一道特别选择的菜谱，以反映她在墨索里尼统治下成长时期的饮食状况。在这些叙事之间穿插着尖锐而富有趣味的短文，阐明了法西斯统治下意大利的各个饮食历史面向和日常生活。

《细嚼慢咽》引人入胜且引人深思，温和地揭穿了意大利美食怀旧产业的种种神话，展现出一种与大多数人对意大利美食印象截然不同的饮食文化。

评论

A remarkable insight into the realities of Italian food. This book lays bare the multiple dimensions of Italian gastronomy: geography, politics, social background, education and economics. It is an eloquent dissection of the nuances of the world’s favorite cooking as well as a magical exercise in memory. A brilliant reconstruction of the kitchens and cookery (and much else besides) of a previous generation.

-Tom Jaine, Food writer, publisher, critic, and restaurateur

Moyer-Nocchi succeeds in conveying a world that needs to be remembered and appreciated in its complexity. There were no heroes or villains, just people struggling to survive. It is always important to know where we come from to have a more objective and informed vision of who we are.

-Fabio Parasecoli - Huffington Post

This is a book to read from cover to cover, as the carefully crafted structure reveals a much more complex narrative than just a few interviews with old ladies, and chats on past foodways. Karima Moyer-Nocchi is one of a new generation of historians intent on redressing the balance of Italian food history, putting cherished myths into proper perspective.

-Gillian Riley - author of The Oxford Companion to Italian Food

这是对意大利美食现实的卓越洞察。本书揭示了意大利美食的多重维度：地理、政治、社会背景、教育和经济。这既是对世界最受欢迎的烹饪体系细微差别的雄辩剖析，也是一次神奇的记忆之旅。对上一代人的厨房和烹饪（以及更多方面）进行了精彩的重构。

——汤姆·杰恩（美食作家、出版人、评论家和餐厅主）

莫耶-诺基成功地展现了一个需要被铭记和以其复杂性被理解的世界。那里没有英雄或恶棍，只有为生存而奋斗的人们。了解我们从何处来，对于我们更客观、更明智地认识自我而言永远重要。

——法比奥·帕拉塞科利 - 《赫芬顿邮报》

这是一本值得从头读到尾的书，其精心设计的结构揭示出远比与老太太们的访谈、关于往日饮食方式的闲谈更为复杂的叙事。卡丽玛·莫耶-诺基是新一代历史学家中的一员，致力于重新审视意大利食品历史，让人们以恰当的视角看待那些珍视的神话。

——吉莉安·赖利 -《牛津意大利食品指南》作者

作者简介

A professor in the modern languages department at the University of Siena in Tuscany, Italy, Karima Moyer-Nocchi has made Italy her home for over twenty-five years. As an enthusiastic food historian, she travels extensively through Italy studying the social, economic, and cultural factors that characterize cuisine in each region of the country. She is a frequent lecturer in Food Studies both in Italy and abroad. The author presently resides in Città di Castello, Umbria, with her husband.

卡丽玛·莫耶-诺基是意大利托斯卡纳锡耶纳大学现代语言系的教授，在意大利生活超过25年。作为一位热情的食品历史学家，她在意大利各地广泛考察，研究塑造该国各地区美食特色的社会、经济和文化因素。她经常在意大利国内外进行食品研究方面的讲座。目前，作者与丈夫居住在翁布里亚大区的奇塔迪卡斯特洛。

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